| Building a Mk XIV |
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| by Michael Scharmer | |||||||||||||
Page 11 of 11  16.11.2006 Fore the moment I am painting and sanding, painting and sanding, there is not much to tell. Here is a short summary of the rig construction. Three riggs are being built.  The booms are made by plywood 0.8mm and planks of 3x2, 4g. It is easier to make them of plywood , than of massive wood. The Jib boom is as long as the ship length permits.  Corrector weights can be added. An advantage with this method is that it is not as easy to get caught up in something with lead attach to the boom this way. The masts are after gluing the 11x11 strips, planed down to an 8-sided piece. Then further planed until completely round. Afterwards they are squeezed through a 11mm hole and afterwards through a 10.7mm hole, not by force but carefully planed so far down, that they exactly go through the hole.  A mast crane is then bonded on at the top of the mast, cutting down a brass tube with internal threads, to make an adjustable screw to put on the shrouds ends. Notice that all the masts are made to the same shape and dimensions. When finished all the parts must be sanded and painted. I still have to make some small parts for the gooseneck fitting and the tack fastening parts. 17.11.2005 The outer ply of the mast is 3 mm thick, and the inner ply is 5mm thick. This gooseneck fitting I have made this way the last five years.  It looks like this. Fittings for ball bearings of carbon, stainless bearings(well), outside tube 9mm and inside 4mm. Therefore a piece of wood with 10.7mm with package tape wrapped around for volume; a massive metal part of 9mm is fastened on the outside with tape; then wrap carbon fibre mats around and laminate until an aprox. 2mm thickness is achieved.  I cut small pieces off when the parts have cured. The sawed off rings for the gooseneck are glued on with instant glue.  With fast drying adhesive the piece is glued to the mast, and painted. The ball bearings are bonded into these fittings. The turned part is a carbonfiber tube, outside 6mm and inside 4mm, also laminated and cut to size after curing. It shall fit in exactly between the bearings. As axle I use a carbonfiber tube with 4mm outer diameter. This tube is also put in place with fast curing adhesive.23.11.2005 Why do you use bronze in your bushings? Since I do not have knockout and expensive machines and tools for use, I find, that bronze is easy to work on There are other materials around, but as long as I find bronze up to the job - I'll use it. We return to the boat. For the moment I wait for the weekend, in order to paint. So for now I can prepare some small things, for instance the rigs.  These hooks are used as forestay fittings, by holes are put and bent in the backside of the wooden parts   It is however only the upper leg (the longer one), that passes through completely and is bent, the lower leg stops inside the mast. For the bent end a small groove was cut beforehand into the rear edge of the mast.. In order to determine the centre, the mast is put on an even surface (I use a mirror) and with a pencil marks parallel to the surface. Then the mast is turned and with the same distance from the other side I make a similar mark. I then drill for the shrouds, spreaders, etc. I bore from both sides. In order to get the same height, you can simply stick a broad tesa masking tape around the mast, if the edge meets the other one after orbiting, the tape is right-angled to the mast, and you drill carefully. If the mast is pressed in there in front and behind the bearing, I believe, that is good. My parts are from carbon, but I do not have more than one millimetre of wall thickness. With my parts I saw the shaped part for the mast (wood); the bearing shaped part is made of metal and that I so far again and again got out. This building report has to wait a little. Last weekend my working boat got broken. I must get the new one up and running before this weekend. 11.12.2005 So, looking back this far, where are we, aha let’s continue for an hour more. The building of the rigs...  At the shaped parts for the mainsail clew and for the jib tack there are bent 1.5mm wire to form a hook. The hook is then glued to with thin Kevlar bands with sper glue. Besides that a 1mm longer wire is placed for the alignment and fixation, this way a firm fastening in the holes on the boom is ensured.  To make the gooseneck we must fit the carbon fittings The work on the mast must be accuarate, so that we ensures balance between starboard and port side. I glue everything with super glue on to the mast. Now you can add the limit marks for the sail at the mast if you like.  greetings from Michael (GER09) With the openings in the deck, not forbidden yet… More on building: - Modellsegeln Bodensee - a nice german site with a collection of buildingplans. - Sherman Yachts - lot of building info and pictures. |
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